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Mission #4 – July 31, 2011

Sunday, July 31, 2011

The next morning was Sunday and mass at 7am. I had not been to a Roman Catholic mass in a long time. As I have said, the chapel is truly beautiful and I was looking forward to attending despite my own beliefs about the religion. All of the children were in attendance as were the Nuns, Mariel, Elena and I. The beautiful part of it was you could tell that the children wanted to be there. They seemed to find a sense of tranquility and safety here as was evident by their participation. It was a real treat when one of the Nuns began to play the guitar, Madre played the tambourine, and everyone began to sing. The little boys kept time by banging the pews on beat with the music, using them as an impromptu drum. I smiled at Carlito while he was banging away and he returned huge grin. Although I couldn’t follow the words, the mass was similar to my own Episcopal services so I didn’t feel out of sync. And while I didn’t understand the priest’s sermon in Spanish, when everyone began laughing at something he said, it was evident that he had a sense of humor. This was refreshing and I was glad to see that religion need not be “mucho serioso” all the time here.

After mass and a breakfast of scrambled eggs (yes, real scrambled eggs made by Sor M&M!) we left for La Finca, taking Allison with us. The drive was pleasant and I saw different areas of Nicaragua that I had not seen or known before. We drove through a city on the way, Jinotepe I think, and stopped briefly at a large church there. Madre spoke to someone and then hopped back in the truck. As we moved out of the city and back into the country, closer to the farm, we stopped to pick up three more nuns. We were already packed into the truck so two of the nuns sat on Madre in the front seat and the other squeezed in with the 4 of us in the back. Apparently these were the same nuns that lived at La Finca and they had walked into town for Sunday mass. They were easily 2 miles away from church when we found them on their return walk with another 1 mile to go; can you imagine a 6 mile trip to attend mass? That’s impressive!

Allison & me

The main farm building was not what I expected. It was large, open and spacious. And while it was not new, it did not seem to be in the same state of disrepair so evident at el Crucero. The nuns living area in the center of the building was pristine and the surrounding areas had terracotta floor tiles swept clean and large windows.

La Finca building

Allison had recognized three nuns and went happily off with them. Madre then took Mariel, Elena and I out for a tour. What I saw brought a huge smile to my face. This was a working farm! There were many types of produce and fruit being grown in orderly and well tended gardens. There were hundreds of tomatoes plants staked with strong branches and string, squash, peppers, rows and rows of red beans, watermelon, pumpkin, corn, and guava, mango, orange, mandarin and spice trees. And a few fruits I’d never even heard of! I was amazed and told Madre so.

Hundreds of tomato plants

She said that there biggest problem was not enough manpower to harvest and in the past, they had local workers do this for a 50/50 split of the produce. Her new plan was to hire a local family that they knew that would live and work at the farm, tend it and harvest it Then the Nuns would sell the produce at local markets and supermarkets. With this much produce; this would surely reap good profits. This woman was a dynamic business woman as well! I told her this and she laughed and hugged me.

At one point, Madre stood holding a shovel that consisted of a strong tree branch and a shovel head tied on with twine in one hand and talking on her cell phone on the other. The incongruousness of this made me laugh out loud.

Madre and shovel at La Finca

We worked our way back to the house, stopping to see what was left of the animals that the boys hadn’t sold out from under them. A herd of something that looked like a cross between a sheep and a goat ran by and there were also a bunch of chickens walking about eating what they found on the ground.
Once inside the house, the Nuns served us a refreshing cold drink (they had a working refrigerator) made of juice from one of the nameless Nicaraguan fruits on the farm. This was the same small yellow fruit that Madre had asked me to take a bite out of while we were walking. I did so and although I didn’t eat it, I didn’t mind the taste. The fruit drink was very good.

Mariel, Madre and mangos

Mariel and Elena went off to collect guava and mangos to bring back with them. I took this opportunity to take a walk by myself back up in to the fields. As I walked, I discovered Allison with one of the Nuns and our driver, trying to get some small fruit down from a large tree. After throwing sticks at the fruit, the driver climbed into the tree and began shaking the branches. As the fruits fell, Allison squealed with delight as she ran around helping the Sister to pick them up and put them in the bucket. I left her happily helping.

Allison collecting fruit

Farther up I encountered a pathway created by rain runoff with an army of ants marching up, each one holding a small piece of a leaf. There were thousands of them going by, oblivious to me or anything else. They were so industrious and I stopped to watch.

Marching ants

The tranquility of this place had seeped in and I felt a peace that I hadn’t known in a while. The sky was a beautiful blue, large white clouds and a comfortable temperature provided a different picture of Nicaragua. There was so much potential here; and it seemed that Madre was well on her way to reaping the benefits that would help them all. I let the peace of the place and the knowledge that good things were happening restore me.

Chapel at La Finca

Spending more time than I realized, I returned to find everyone waiting for me. We said “adios” to the 3 Sisters and piled back into the truck. After about 30 minutes, we arrived at the coffee farm in Masatepe. This was an added bonus as we didn’t know we would be traveling here as well. Madre had some business to take care of here but before she did so, she gave us a tour.

This facility is where the Novices come to study to be a nun. It is also a retreat center used by visitors who pay to do so, a coffee bean farm, and the local church. It was clearly self-sustaining. The retreat area was lovely with plants purposely planted for beauty and appeal, a gazebo to enjoy the gardens and immaculately tiled floors on the walkways. There were numerous buildings including a large chapel/church that was beautifully maintained as all chapels in Nica seemed to be.

Retreat Gardens

Madre left us to walk around, while Allison was again happy to play with people that she knew. Two of the young woman that had been at El Crucero and at Juan Pablo were there, Olga and Iveth, and she was happy to accompany them. Apparently, the nuns, the children and young adults all moved between facilities frequently.

Mariel, Elena and I walked through the coffee bean trees. I found it fascinating as I had never seen coffee growing before and the small green beans, not yet ready for harvest, covered every tree. The plants were strong and healthy-looking and well tended. I asked Madre later on about selling coffee which I know she planned to do. I also asked if she would have decaf available since this was not easy to find and she said yes. She explained that her brother had a coffee farm and he had given her guidance on what was needed. I know we will be able to help her sell this when it is harvested.

Coffee beans

We were served a lovely lunch of chicken, rice, cabbage slaw and plantains. After a while, Madre came to collect us and we started our return trip to El Crucero. Once there, Madre told us the driver would bring me back to the MoH compound and would also drop off Mariel and Elena. We went to get our bags and I began to say goodbye to the children. I didn’t like this part at all.

Unfortunately or fortunately, there weren’t many of them around but a few of the ever present little boys were. Kenneth, a serious little boy with pretty eyes and a shy smile, came up and put his arm around my waist and demanded to know when I would return. The tears I was trying to hold back started to come anyway and I choked out a “no se” as I really didn’t know when I would be returning. He wasn’t happy with that answer and started to press me further. “Enero?” January? “Febrero?” February? Again I told him I didn’t know as my mind reeled with chaos. When could I return? I just wasn’t sure but I didn’t like to think about not seeing all of them for a long period of time. Of course, I couldn’t convey any of this to him so I smiled down at him, squeezed him hard and kissed his forehead.

Kenneth

Sor M&M had been busy making cards with the children to give to their sponsors. I had given her a list matching each child up with their sponsors. In a few cases, due to attrition and non-renewals of sponsorships this year, there were some children without sponsors listed. I intended to re-shuffle sponsorship assignments when I returned home as we now had a number of new children to add to the program, but in the meantime, Carlito didn’t have a sponsor next to his name. Sor M&M questioned me about this and when I started to say, I would be assigning a new sponsor, I stopped and looked at Carlito’s hopeful little face. When I saw what began to be a crestfallen disappointment, I knew I needed to come up with a better answer. Luckily, Mariel solved the problem by volunteering that her mother Rita planned to sponsor a child and the issue was resolved. Carlito was very happy to know that his Madrina’s name was Rita.

Madre had suggested that I not say goodbye to Allison as this would most likely upset her. Not so much because I was leaving but because she wouldn’t be. I understood this of course but was disappointed not to be able to give her a kiss and hug until next time.

The truck was waiting and the three of us began to walk over to the main house to say goodbye to Madre. Sor M&M was going to follow shortly as she was still working on the cards. She seems to enjoy making them and was painstakingly cutting out flowers when I left her.

Madre was waiting by the door but she was not going to make the ride with us as it would only be a waste of what was left of the afternoon. I was not looking forward to saying goodbye to her either. As we hugged each other, Elena translated for me as I told her that I was so grateful to have been able to stay with her and so happy to see all of the progress that she had made. I promised that I would continue to try to help as much as we could. She then surprised me and said “none of this would have possible without my help”. Now, I know this is absolutely not true as she has been a whirlwind of progress and determination since February however, I was touched that she felt I had helped. I was full on crying when we hugged again.

Sor M&M arrived with the promised cards and I said another difficult goodbye. It is very possible that she will not be at El Crucero when I return next year and I may never see her again. This reality was in the back of my mind and I hugged her and the tears that had stopped, started up again. She smiled her beatific smile at me and we hugged one last time and I jumped in the truck. I will trust to God as to where our paths will lead us but she will be one of those people that I will never forget.

I said goodbye to Mariel when we dropped her off; she too will not be here when I return although I am sure we can keep in touch. I thanked her for all the good she has done the children; it has been a real blessing to them. Elena rode with me to the compound so she could instruct the driver and I said goodbye and thank you to her as well as I got out.

Once in the compound, a few people asked about my latest visit and I was happy to tell them. My agenda on these trips is such that I operate outside of the norm and this is puzzling to some people. I appreciated the opportunity to explain what I do and why I do it and especially what my goals are for the children.

After a very welcome shower, I sorted out my packing as I would be leaving with Sr. Debbie for the airport early the next morning. Later that evening, I sat with the group at our nightly meeting and my mind drifted to everything I had experienced on this trip. I was feeling much better than I had anticipated. Originally, I had been anxious about coming as I had begun to feel that we were making little progress. But now I felt that progress was indeed being made after all. (Vince had said just this to me before I left, I should have listened to him.) Most of the progress was due to Madre’s efforts but in a small way, I hope that we have helped also. This re-energized me for the work I would do when I returned home.

And I was ready to return home. The next morning I was packed and ready by 7am and we left at 8. I rode in the back of the truck (love that!) and enjoyed the sunshine and breeze while having some alone time to say goodbye to Nicaragua for a while. Hasta luego! I took a cab from the Caritas building where Sr. Debbie had her next meeting so that I would arrive at the airport with enough time.

Once at the airport and through security, I sat at the gate for a few hours which I didn’t mind at all since they had free wireless – who knew? I was even able to Skype with Vince for a little bit. I boarded my plane to Houston and without any complications arrived in Newark at 10:30pm later that evening. I was very happy to hug my husband who was waiting for me. And one of the first things I asked him was – will you come back to Nicaragua with me the next time I go?

Me and a little one

Mission #4 – July 30, 2011

Saturday, July 30, 2011

Friday morning and we are off to build home shelters. I had done this on my first mission trip with Vanessa in February 2010 but didn’t think I would get to participate this time. We all bounced along in the back of the pick up truck; the Mission volunteers and the family and friends of the people that would get a new home shelter that day. I love riding in the back of the truck; it’s not exactly something you have the opportunity to do back in the States. The blowing wind cooled things off for a little while at least.

Riding in the back of the truck

We arrived at the first home shelter site and hiked up the hill. We met the young mother who was to receive the home shelter and was there to help along with her two children. Right next to where the new foundation of concrete blocks had been set was the structure they were all living in now. I took a family “before” picture of their current shelter with it’s rusted aluminum sheet walls, plastic bags and bits and pieces of wood holding it together and would later take another picture of them in front of their new home.

Before....


And after (with Colleen, home shelter sponsor)

The mother and her young son were helping the others build while we did a lot of watching. This felt very uncomfortable however; I understood that the reality is, most of us would just be in the way. At least I know I would. I was happy to help carry things around but I know from past experience that banging the hell out of those nails still doesn’t send them into that Nicaraguan wood! It is incredibly hard and dense. So I kept myself busy by looking for any children that might be nearby.

In a shelter next door, there was a young boy, about 2, playing in the dirt. I went over to him and knelt down to say hello. He had one of the dirtiest little faces I have ever seen; literally covered in dirt as was the rest of him. He had a wary look in his eyes so I smiled and asked if I could take his picture. When I showed it to him afterwards; he broke into a fit of giggles that surprised me and made me laugh as well. He thought the picture of himself was just hysterical and I was pleased that this small thing could make him so happy.

Sweet dirty little boy

His laughs brought other children over and before I knew it, I was snapping one picture after another, just to make them all laugh. I might not be helping too much with the home shelter but at least I had done something that made these little people happy for a time.

Happy children

Diana, our 13 year old translator was a real treat. I had met her at the compound and her English was so good, that I actually asked if she was an American. There wasn’t a trace of an accent. Since I knew we would be without a translator on our home shelter expedition, I had asked if she might be allowed to come and she was thrilled with the opportunity. During a lull in the action, Diana and I talked about her dreams for the future. She shared some things about her family, in particular information about her mother which led us into a conversation about the types of choices Diana would make for her future. I reminded her that whatever choice she did make, it was hers to make. She had the right to say “no” and to choose when she wanted to have children. I encouraged her to work hard in school and to go on to university. But in reality, she needed little encouragement from me as she already knew that she wanted to study medicine and become a doctor. Although she wanted to visit the U.S., she planned to return home to Nicaragua to practice medicine with her people. I felt very heartened and hopeful that this young woman was an example of the next generation that will bring positive change to her country.

After the second home shelter was completed, we rode back in the bed of the truck again but this time it started to rain and rain hard. Within a few minutes, we were all soaked through, our hair and faces streaming with water. I thought it was all pretty cool since the rain washed off the sweat and dust and cooled us off. Since we had a one-shower per day limit at the compound, I felt getting drenched by the rain as a good thing.

Diana had done such a fantastic job translating, that I called Sr. Debbie to ask if she might come with us to Juan Pablo later that afternoon. I knew that I would be talking with Sor (Sister) Andrea and the language barrier would be a real problem. Diane was delighted when we received word that this special request had been approved. I suggested that she continue to offer her services to the MoH, especially at the medical clinic and she said she would be happy to.

Once back, I dried off and re-grouped since I had to pack to stay overnight at El Crucero once again. I needed only to bring a few things plus my notebook and folders but it always takes a while to make sure I have it all. So I was late for lunch – again. Bev, a true lunch-lady of the kindest sort allowed me to get some food. I appreciated her help AND that she didn’t scold me. I was pretty tired of being scolded about one rule or another. I seemed to be continually breaking them despite my efforts at compliance. There are A LOT of rules on mission and a lot of Type “A” personalities that feel the need to enforce them.

About 6 of us drove to Juan Pablo with Chico the driver in one of the rented vans. When we arrived, Sor Andrea let us in through the iron barred gate that was a necessary security protection. She seemed to remember me and greeted me cordially. Sor Andrea is not the warmest of the sisters I have met on mission but she has an incredibly hard job that I cannot imagine doing. She is responsible for the children 24/7 in a hot, old, small building populated with up to 30 children all under 7. There are two other nuns who help plus some of the older girls from El Crucero. Still, it is unimaginable to think of doing this – what goes through her mind when she wakes in the morning? She is kind to the children though and does a wonderful job of teaching them so by the time they move up to El Crucero for school, many of them are already reading at 5 years old.

Sor Andrea

Juan Pablo was quieter than I had ever seen it. Since it was Saturday, the day care children that are dropped off during the week were not there so only the “internals”, the children that lived there permanently were there, save one little boy dropped off for the day.

I immediately looked for Allison and found her sitting in a small chair. She was unusually quiet and a little shy when I greeted her and although I think she knew who I was, she didn’t talk to or engage with me. I left her alone so that she might get used to all of us being there and Diana and I went off to give out some of the beautiful handmade dresses that Bev had given me before we left. Then I wanted to talk to Sor Andrea about the children and the status at Juan Pablo. The other ladies that had come with me were all enthusiastic about playing with the children and before I knew it, they were all mostly on the floor keeping the children occupied. I was happy to see this as there wasn’t much going on before we got there so I presume that this play time would be the highlight of their day.

Playing on the floor

When a street vendor went by selling ice cream, I ran out and bought ice pops for everyone, children, the missioners and the nuns. We all enjoyed the cool treat although the littlest ones needed to be washed from head to toe when they were finished as they were covered in sticky, melted ice pops!

I had brought a large floor puzzle that kept them everyone busy and when I was done talking to Sor Andrea, I began taking pictures of the children. Orquidia Guadalupe or Lupe, my daughter Vanessa’s sponsor child looked so pretty in her new dress, as did Rosita, the little fireball and Allison who had gotten involved in the activities. Also there was Josue, Rosita’s little brother who had gotten so big since I last saw him and Jose, a new baby that was only 5 weeks old. His 17 year old mother was also staying at Juan Pablo.

3 new dresses

I asked if I could take a picture of the two of them together and although she said yes, she refused to look at the camera. When I showed her the picture, she smiled but I saw the tear tracks that ran down her face. My heart broke as I realized that she might be embarrassed to have her picture taken and I reached over to stroke her face and tried to tell her it would be all right. I had known in advance that she was there and knew also that her story was difficult. I wanted to do something to comfort her though and with Diana’s help talked to her a little about her plans for the future. I encouraged her to go back to school and to finish her studies. She didn’t seem to think this was necessary but I persisted until she smiled in what I hoped might be agreement.

Aracelli and baby Jose

I made a tour of the facility, looking at the kitchen and living areas. At this point, I had been there enough times that I felt I could go into these private areas; I was looking for improvement and areas that needed help. Unfortunately, I was not pleased to find that there were cockroaches in the kitchen and the refrigerator was not full of food.

Madre Griselda was scheduled to meet me at Juan Pablo at 4pm to pick up me and Allison but she surprised me and arrived early. The others from Mission left with Chico and Madre and I began our attempt to have Allison come with us. But she seemed to sense that something was going on, because she had become sullen and quiet and was sitting in her chair quietly clutching her little bag. Madre asked her if she wanted to come and then the drama began.

She ran to the back room and into her bed crying and wailing that she didn’t want to go; she wanted to go home to her mama. I let Madre talk to her as I didn’t think I would be much help; it was the Nuns she knew the best. Madre was so patient and gentle with her; not once did I see her get angry at what was effectively a temper tantrum, no matter how understandable. This attitude of kindness and patience is something I have seen over and over again and it amazes me. I’m a mother an know how challenging and trying children can be; these women never seem to lose their patience. Incredible.

In the meantime, I asked Sor Andrea if I could bring Allison’s things – clothes or toys – with us. She said she had nothing to bring. The impact of this would hit me later, after the drama had subsided, as I realized that this little girl did not own a thing. No toys, no clothes, not anything that did not belong to the communal whole. The unfairness of this infuriated me although I realized that it was a consequence of institutional living but I didn’t have to like it.

Allison was not calming down so drastic measures were called for. Arelyis, the mother of Rosita and Josue had to physically pick her up and put her into the truck, while Allison was screaming all the while. Madre had also decided to bring Rosita with us in an effort to placate Allison but also because Rosita would be moving back up to El Crucero in the near future as well. She, Allison and Lupe were all the same age and would begin school soon.

Once in the truck, Allison continued to whimper although the screaming and the tears had stopped. It is very difficult to communicate with an upset child when you don’t speak their language very well so since I couldn’t say anything that would help, I started to sing quietly instead. I sang all of the verses of Mary had a Little Lamb three times and the Mockingbird song (you know the one, Mamma’s gonna’ buy you a mockingbird…). And when I ran out of words, I made them up. I don’t really know if it helped but it didn’t hurt. We played with the few random toys that we had brought with us and eventually, both girls started smiling.

Smiles at last

By the time we left the city and started driving up the mountain, Allison and Rosita were both eagerly looking at the window at the scenery. While Rosita had been back and forth quite a few times, Allison had not made the trip as frequently so it was exciting for her; I could see it in her face. This made me happy since the whole point of making this change was to give her new experiences.

Once we arrived at El Crucero, Madre went about her business and I went with the 2 little girls to the dormitory area. But first, Allison ran around the courtyard in the brilliant sun shine whooping with delight. The picture of her big smile and her hair flying as she ran is frozen in my mind. This is what I wanted her to have, a chance and a place to run.

By now, the other little children had come to greet the 2 girls and they were running around in a pack. The rest of the afternoon passed and as I walked with the various little children to another building (there are multiple buildings in the compound), I was surprised to see Mariel and Elena. While I knew they were there on Saturday, they had not planned to stay overnight. However, the older girls had begged them to do so and I found them all watching a movie on Mariel’s laptop. I was happy to see them and really happy that we would now have Elena as a translator.

After dinner with the older girls and Sor M&M, I was asked to come see a special Powerpoint presentation that Mariel had helped the girls prepare for me. Each of the slides had a picture of one of the children followed by their age, birth date, favorite hobby or sports team and their dreams for the future. Each child read their own bio out loud and it was sweet to see who would read shyly and who didn’t. I really enjoyed it and told them all I was very proud of them. I then asked them to prepare one for me for my next visit that included how they planned to make their dreams come true.

That night, after the children had gone to bed, I sat in the other room writing in my journal. Sor M&M joined me and we had a conversation using my little yellow Spanish-English book when we got stuck on a word. Since Sor M&M has no English and my Spanish is limited, this was quite often. I asked about her family and her health and felt that our conversation was between two friends that were getting to know each other a little better. She then talked about her vocation and her belief in God, or El Senor as they refer to God, and how she was always searching for answers. I told her that I found my answers to God in helping the children. She smiled at that.

Allison had settled in for bed although she had asked me numerous times when she was going back to Juan Pablo. I told her “No se”, or I don’t know, which wasn’t true but we had decided to hold off on telling her the full story for a little while longer. So we lay in the small bunk – wow, was this thing hard! – and I waited for her to fall asleep. Once she did, she tossed and turned only a little but a few times, she rolled right into me and bonked me in the head. Little children sleep the same way all over the world.

Sleeping and dreaming

Mission #4 July 28, 2011

July 28, 2011

I left for El Crucero on Thursday morning around 8am. I asked my driver Hiro, to stop at the food store on the way so that I could buy food to bring with me. As we made the 40 minute trip, I watched the landscape change from the city to the mountainous countryside and I realized I was finally flying solo. I was on my own adventure now and would need to rely on my own initiative. I was supposed to meet both Mariel, the volunteer psychologist working at the orphanages for MoH and Elena the translator at El Crucero later in the morning, but this was my mini-mission. I was in a third world country, no one was guiding my actions but me and I was equal parts excited and anxious.

Alison was not coming with me. She had told Mariel that she didn’t want to go to El Crucero, she just wanted to go home. Allison is struggling greatly at the baby orphanage – Juan Pablo (aka Casa Cuna), as her mother is now dropping off her new baby brother and while he gets to go home at night, Allison must remain at the orphanage. Needless to say, this is devastating to her as she faces an almost daily rejection by her own mother. She has been acting out and misbehaving which is not at all usual for her. I am even more anxious for her to go to El Crucero permanently for this reason among many others. I was disappointed that I wouldn’t see her but certainly wasn’t going to force her to come. I would make other arrangements to see her.

I arrived at El Crucero around 9am, it was still pretty early but I was happy when I could read the pleased look of recognition on Madre’s face as she realized who I was. She immediately called me by name and came to embrace me. It was a warm feeling. I had only met this woman in February and while I had stayed there then, a lot of time had passed in between.

The driver and one of the novices (there are 6 young woman studying to become nuns that also live at El Crucero), helped to bring in the food, gifts, clothes and other donations from the back of the truck. As we brought the food into the kitchen area, Madre laughed and opened the refrigerator and freezer door to show me what was inside. I was amazed to see it was full of food! Completely full! I was thrilled to see this and it brought tears to my eyes. I found out later that one of the many things she has accomplished in the last few months is to make arrangements with 4 or 5 different food stores and providers that supply weekly donations of food – milk, meat, cheese, eggs, bread, fruit and vegetables – all the items that we have wanted them to have. She had made some amazing progress and I thought this an auspicious start to my visit.

A full refrigerator!

Madre was very busy, as she had 70 adults attending a school reunion and after initial pleasantries and stumbling through without a translator, I told her I was fine and that she should go take care of whatever she had to do. I used this time to walk around the compound, hoping to greet any children I might find. It was during school hours so only a few were outside, mostly the little girls and boys. Nadezna came running to greet me with a big hug. She was followed by Mileydis, and the sisters, Maria and Lupe (Wendy Guadulupe). Then the little boys, Alexis, Carlito, Kenneth and little Kevin ran over to me and hugged me as well. They weren’t completely sure who I was, but I think they realized that they had seen me before and I looked familiar and fun. I have found that the children are demonstrative; showering you with hugs and kisses. I realize that in some part, this is due to their own emotional issues of abandonment and lack of family – they are always eager for attention and affection – but they are also really sweet children, genuinely happy to see you.

Guadlupe and Nadezna

After a while, the older girls started to appear and as I greeted most of them, I could see that they were very pleased that I remembered their names. Silsa, Veronica, Katherine, Jessica, and Naome encircled me with hugs and kisses. This was what I came for. “Recuerdome?” I asked them, “do you remember me?” and they nodded yes. Then they made a game of helping me to remember the girl’s names I couldn’t remember by giving me clues of the first and second letter of their names to help me guess. We all laughed as I sorted them out.

My lack of Spanish was hitting me really hard and I was frustrated that I had not yet mastered the language. After a while, the girls went about their own business as our semi-conversation wound down. So I wandered around, taking pictures, looking for other signs of progress and eventually ended up in the chapel as it is a quiet and beautiful place. Amidst a facility that is falling down in many places, this lovely chapel is a quiet oasis, maintained with love by the Sisters. While the disparity of this situation is difficult to comprehend – where does the money come from to keep this place pristine when the children have a leaky roof and decrepit plumbing? – I forced myself once again to not judge by my own American-girl standards. I was in their place, these were their priorities, and I was a guest. I would have to help them on their own terms or not at all.

The chapel at El Crucero

I saw Sr. M &M and went to greet her. Her big smile and sincere hug were another warm welcome as it was evident we were both happy to see each other.

Sr. M&M and Kevin, her nephew

Mariel and Elena arrived but immediately went into Mariel’s scheduled sessions with the children. She is now meeting with quite a few children on an individual basis to council and help with their emotional issues. She is definitely making progress. She also is working with the children in groups and helping them work together and learn skills to help themselves. But Mariel is leaving in October and I am saddened that this resource will be taken away from the children. I can only hope and pray that what they have learned from her, they will retain and take with them into their own futures.

Me, Elena and Mariel

The Sisters invited us to lunch of chicken, rice and a delicious cucumber salad. What a meal ! and a far cry from previous meals of rice and beans. Their food situation had turned around completely and I was delighted. We talked a little with Madre and the other Sisters and they seemed genuinely happy that we were there. It is always uncomfortable to have them wait on us and serve us, but they insist upon it; Nicaraguan courtesy.

Eating with the Nuns

Later that afternoon, the three of us, Mariel, Elena and I had a 2 hour meeting with Madre to discuss all of the children. Some of the children are no longer at the orphanage and some new children were added. Most of the reasons that children were no longer in the program were not good ones. A young baby named Enrique had gone back to live with his 19 year old mother despite the fact that she could not care for him. The Nuns were unhappy with this and are trying to encourage her to do better. Two of the older boys that lived at the farm had dropped out of school and were following an all too typical path of drinking and delinquency. Without the Nun’s knowledge, they had sold the two goats and the ox leaving them without working farm animals. Both unfortunate signs of a culture with deep rooted problems that cannot be resolved over night.

Our conversation turned to my Allison. Madre told me that she thought Allison was coming with me as she was unaware that Allison didn’t want to come. I explained this to her and then asked again, when we might be able to bring her to El Crucero permanently. She surprised me by saying that her plan had been to do this while I was there. Not wanting to let this opportunity to make this pivotal change in her young life – El Crucero might not be perfect but it is a better environment than Juan Pablo where she is now – we decided upon another plan. On Saturday, I will meet Madre at Juan Pablo and together we will all drive back to El Crucero. Her suggestion is that the “novelty” of my bringing her will over-ride her apprehension about going there. I am not completely sure that this will work out this way and fully expect that Allison will be upset however, we are all in agreement that this is the best move for her. Her two young friends who are also 5, Rosita and Orquidia Guadalupe (my daughter Vanessa’s sponsor child), will come up soon after so that they all can start first grade in January. But in the meantime, I’m sure there will be separation issues. I hope that our best intentions are the right decision. I believe in my heart that they are but I ache knowing that she will be distraught for a time.

I also found out that the surgery that Allison’s mother has been unable to facilitate due to her own problems is not as major as I had been told. This was welcome news and the hope is that living at El Crucero will make the surgery and necessary post-surgery orthotic shoes a reality. Another wonderful thing that Madre has put in place is that soon, a doctor and a dentist will visit the facility WEEKLY to check the children and the nuns. This woman is incredible. She has done all of this by networking and pushing to improve the lives of the children. I think no one can say “no” to her.

The additional part of our plan is that after staying over again on Saturday night with Allison, we will all go to the Farm, La Finca, on Sunday. I had wanted to go for a while to see what possibilities might be there for income and vocational training so this was a welcome surprise. Mariel and Elena will come up on Sunday morning to join us but for Saturday evening, I will really be on my own. Oh I wish I could speak Spanish! Juan – I should have kept studying!

Dinner of rice and beans but also the delicious Nicaraguan white cheese that made it all taste great. Dinner conversation with Madre and the other Nuns revealed the other advances she had made. Security guards are now present 7 days a week now and it was no longer necessary for the Nuns to patrol the grounds at night dressed as men, although she still had the gun. The electric transformer had been replaced by the Power company at no expense to them and an NGO was coming to inspect the old and dangerous wiring and make repairs. The children were receiving dancing and sewing lessons. And lots of food! A lot of progress in only 5 months time – what would this woman accomplish in a year!

I was exhausted and when I started to yawn at the dinner table, Madre teased me about going to bed. Mariel and Elena stayed in the main building to work on homework and I crossed the dark courtyard to the girl’s dorm alone. The night sky was very black with a wind that promised to become stronger as the night went on.

I was pleasantly surprised to see the light on in the girls dorm as there had been no electric when I was there before. Another wonderful accomplishment. After washing up in a cold bucket of water – there were no improvements to the bathrooms unfortunately – I sat on my bed while the older girls congregated around me. I took out the pictures I had brought to share with them; Vince, my girls and of course our new puppies, Sage and Gwena. I had more pictures of them than my family and the girls got a big kick out of them. They are the cutest puppies in the world after all.

The Girls Dorm


Lying in my bunk bed, with my sweatshirt as a pillow, I struggled to fall asleep even though I was tired. My brain was reeling from all that had been said and done today and from seeing all of the children once again. I felt more comfortable this time and eventually feel asleep, warm and content despite the ache in my hips from the rock hard bed.

I woke early at 5am and lay in bed for an hour listening to the quiet breathing of the girls. It was much quieter here than the Mission compound. Eventually, I heard Sr. M&M moving around in her small room off of the dorm area. When she came out, dressed in a robe and without her habit, her short black hair pillow-tumbled from sleeping, I could almost forget she was a nun. But her grace and her clear path to her own expression of faith shine from her like a beacon and her vocation is unmistakable.

Katherine, Mileydis, me and Lupe

I got up and dressed while most of the girls were still asleep, Mariel and Elena who were in bunks right next to me, included. Sr. M&M and I greeted each other with “Buenas Dias” and broad smiles. Eventually, the little boys could be heard singing and laughing next door and then everyone was up and awake. There was no school today due to a Teacher’s conferences so they had been able to sleep a little later than normal until the 6 and 7 year olds gave them no choice but to get up. Not unlike a normal family only with a lot more children and Nun’s for parents.

Breakfast was delicious pineapple – Nicaragua has the BEST pineapple- and cold cereal. Gratefully, no rice and beans. At 8:30, we had our meeting with Sr. Debbie and Mauricio to sort out some communication issues regarding the Orphan’s Hope Project. Most of these were due to growing pains of the OHP process and after an hour and half, we had covered this and other important priorities. Agreement was reached and I felt we had accomplished our goals. One major decision was made that would expand the use of the monthly funds we are providing to the Nuns via the OHP program. This is due to the fact that Madre has been so successful in obtaining donors for food. As these donors can be inconsistent, food purchases are still the priority however, we gave her the option to use the funds for other items such as personal hygiene, additional educational supplies and other items when needed. The monthly accounting receipts that are provided to us give us a listing of how the money is spent. We were all content with this change and see it as positive development.

I said goodbye to the children and knowing I would see them again Saturday made it quick and relatively painless. I rode with Sr. Debbie and her entourage the rest of the afternoon, the highlight being our meeting with the Caritas organization to discuss the HIV orphans that we plan to add to the Orphan’s Hope Project. We learned that there are 50 children and that the only information we will have is their first names due to confidentiality concerns. Because of this, we will not be able to set up individual sponsorships but instead, ask for sponsorships for the program as a whole to help with expenses for the children. We learned that only 5 of the children were in school as they did not have the funds necessary to go, something we wish to focus on. But at least they were all on the anti-viral medicine that would help sustain and prolong their threatened lives. I asked a lot of questions – of course – and got as much information as I could so I will be able to communicate the issue and the need once I return to the U.S.

Afterwards, we were able to meet with a number of the children and their families who were there to pick up supplies. Sr. Debbie had brought 7 beautiful hand-made small quilts to be given as gifts to the children. Because we were not allowed to photograph their faces, again due to confidentiality issues, I took pictures of each child, wrapped in their new quilt, from behind. It was a poignant moment for all of us as we contemplated the lives these children live.

HIV Orphan and her new quilt

I approached one young girl seated in a chair at the front of the room and knelt down to speak to her. Nancy was about 9 and had a beautiful face. I asked her if she had family there and she said no. She didn’t smile and her large brown eyes had an expression that was much too old for her young body. I have never known anyone who was HIV+, nor anyone who had died of AIDS, but if this is what it looks like, it is a terrible thing made even more so in a young child with no real life to look forward to. It was heart-breaking. Anything we can do for them, we should do and would.

A hectic afternoon followed of shopping and stops that Sr. Debbie needed to accomplish and we were back at the compound for dinner. I am sitting in the kitchen area as lights out was 30 minutes ago. Now that the internet is working, I will post this very soon. Unfortunately, it’s not wireless so I can’t do more than make a quick post but it is better than none at all.

If I can blog again on Sunday when I return from El Crucero and La Finca, I will do so. That’s of course if I’ve got any brain power left – this is all such a grand adventure – it fills me up and sucks me dry. Thanks for reading about it.

Mission #4 – July 27, 2011

July 27, 2011

I arrived Tuesday after an uneventful plane trip. My sister Jeannie had driven me to Newark airport the evening before and we stayed overnight at the hotel so I didn’t have to drive to Newark at 4am for my 5:30 am flight. I so appreciated her driving me and we enjoyed staying overnight and watching a Disney movie together. Yep, sisters. I said goodbye to her at 3:30am, took the shuttle to the airport and 8 hours later, found myself standing in the Managua airport waiting for my ride.

I waited for about an hour and was beginning to wonder what my back up plan was if no one came to pick me up (I didn’t have one) when Bonnie and my ride arrived. She was a welcome sight. It was good to see Bonnie; she goes on every large mission and keeps everything running smoothly, or as smoothly as possible in Nicaragua. We then met up with a nurse, Anna who is here on her first mission but plans to return in October to stay for a year. She will replace Mariel, the psychologist who works with the children at the orphanages when she leaves in October. Anna will have a different focus however and I’m not looking forward to losing Mariel as my only consistent and reliable source of communication with the Nuns regarding the children. We have to get the internet working. It is one of my primary goals this trip.

After dinner, I was in bed early. The two hour time difference and the heat – it is SO hot here – knocked me out and I fell asleep relatively easily for a change. I was excited this morning to find out that I was to go with Sr. Debbie for our meeting with the Caritas organization to discuss the 70 HIV orphans that we hope to add to the Orphan’s Hope Project. But 10 minutes before we were supposed to leave the meeting was cancelled due to an emergency with the archbishop. After my initial frustration, I decided to just give it up to the heavens and wait to see what happens. This is very typical for Nicaragua and I lesson I keep telling myself to learn.

So instead, I did rice and beans. This meant that we spent the morning bagging rice and beans (two 100 pound bags of each one) into smaller bags to be taken out on a Rice and Beans walk in the afternoon. The two women I worked alongside, Missy and Alexandra made it a pleasant experience. After lunch, we gathered up all that we had packed and headed out into the country.

The person guiding us was a Nicaraguan woman who has been helped by the mission in the past. She was the recipient of a home shelter built for her and her family and she has maintained involvement with the mission since. It is local people such as Maritza that are instrumental in helping to determine where the aid the Mission provides will go.

We drove by van to an area made up of the ramshackle, rusted tin roof huts that I have seen many times before on my trips here. Think of it as a housing development made up of shacks.

Family livingroom

We moved from one home to another, always greeted by smiling faces and excited children.

The Family Pet

Unfortunately, we did not have toys for the children, only the rice and beans bags but they were enthusiastic none-the-less. A number of the people with me were young high school students and hesitant about approaching the people. I however was not and marched right up to them practicing my limited Spanish, asking names, how they were and if I could take their pictures. All complied and after that, the others seemed to realize that we weren’t just handing out free food; we were there to interact with the community. These poor people – and I do mean poor – were always polite, friendly and happy to see us.

Grateful family

One of the women we met was an 84 year old woman named Elizabeth. She rattled excitedly in Spanish, despite my “no comprendo” and “no hablo Espanol” comments . She hugged me and Anna a few times and seemed very excited that we were there. She accepted her rice and beans gratefully and then proceeded to follow us as we walked around the neighborhood frequently chatting and hugging us.

Anna, Elizabeth (84) and me

Some of the homes were in better condition than others. Some of the people had attempted to improve their areas; some going as far as sweeping the dirt – or so it seemed it was so smooth and neat. One woman had planted flowers all around her home and I asked our translator Steven to tell her that we thought her house was very nice and well-tended. She smiled a big, shy smile and seemed pleased to hear that we had noticed. I took a picture of her with her two young daughters.

Mother and Daughters

Other homes however, were not so well kept. Outside sinks for washing dishes and clothes, wood stoves next to the homes with fires burning. Barefoot and dirty children scrambled everywhere, chasing each other and laughing seemingly oblivious to their situation. This also was not new to me as I had come to realize that these children knew no other way of life and without a frame of reference, didn’t realize there are alternatives. I was pleased to see school uniforms hanging on the barbed-wire clothes line though; at least some of them went to school.

School uniforms on the barbed wire line

We gave away most of our supply and then headed back as a thunderstorm was pending. It is pouring with rain as I write this in the evening and the sound of the crescendo on the tin roof is comforting. I also hope it might cool things down, even in the evenings it is very hot. Our dorm room – shared with about 30 other women – is warm but the ceiling fans move the air and make it bearable. I am happy to report that the roosters and barking dogs can’t be heard from this new compound – a very pleasant change.

Tomorrow I am up very early to try to post this online and send a few emails. I have been totally without internet and if you are reading this, then I was finally able to gain access. It is not yet connected at the compound so I have had to make a trip up the road to the other but don’t worry Vince, I was driven both up and back. Bill has been valiantly trying to get the internet set up for the past two missions but it continues to stubbornly refuse to cooperate. Poor Bill! He has about 100 other things to take care of and he has worked so hard on trying to get the internet connection up and running so he can check this off his list. He’s really a great guy, so dedicated and humble. We could all take a lesson from him.

I am going up to El Crucero tomorrow although my original plan to be picked up has fallen through and I have to make other arrangements. I will stay over until Friday when I will meet with Madre and Sr. Debbie to further define the Orphan’s Hope Project and straighten out a few miscommunications. One of my main goals is to focus on ways to use the computers that have been in limbo without electricity. Now that they have it, or at least will once they analyze and repair the wiring at the facility, I want to be sure that we can get the internet up and running. I also want to discuss technology lessons and the many possibilities this will present to the children and the nuns. Syed – I hope that you and I can finally begin to develop a plan for this.

This has been a long-awaited goal of mine and something I have wanted since beginning this project a year and half ago. This accomplishment would reaffirm my belief that we can make a difference and show it in concrete and positive ways.

After I leave El Crucero on Friday, Sr. Debbie and I will meet with the Caritas organization regarding the HIV orphans. We have already been informed that we will receive only scant information on these children; no names, pictures or other details. So while I will add them to the OHP program; I will not be able to encourage any communication with future sponsors. The stigma here in Nicaragua regarding HIV is huge so the children’s privacy is paramount. We will be able to meet with a few of the children at their homes so at least we will have a first-hand account to pass on. We have already been told of one family with 7 children, 1 died and 4 are HIV positive. I cannot understand how having this many children cam happen; don’t the parents know or realize they are passing HIV to their babies? Perhaps the government should spend less on political rallies and more on HIV and Sexual Health education. I am sure meeting the children and their caretakers – whether parents or otherwise – will be another eye-opening experience and deeply disturbing for me.

I’ll close for now and since I don’t know the next time I will be able to post to the blog, stay tuned…

Trip 4 to Nicaragua

July 24,2011

I will be leaving this Tuesday, July 26 for my fourth trip to Nicaragua. I will be there for 6 days. My agenda is not as ambitious as the last time; but much of this is due to variables I can’t control or information I don’t have. You have to be prepared to manage things “on the ground” as they say…..meaning, I have to be flexible as plans can and will change.

A large mission group will be there also during my stay so I will be staying with them at the new MoH compound, NiCasa. I will be staying overnight at El Crucero again, but only for one night. And I can bring my little Allison. I am looking forward to seeing her as always. She has not yet had her foot surgery although her mother had promised that she would take care of this when I saw her last. Apparently Haydelina is not very good at following through and the Nuns are disappointed with her, as am I. I know I should not judge, her life is hard but I am anxious for Allison. I hope to meet with Haydelina also while I am there to see if I can encourage her to take care of this before Allison gets much older.

My goal is to further define the OHP agreement with Madre Griselda as there has been some confusion resulting in delays in monthly funding. This is unacceptable and I mean to correct it. I’ll also be getting updates on the children, school records (hopefully) and of course new pictures to share with the sponsors.

FYI – We had about 10 sponsors this year who did not renew their sponsorship; I am looking for new new people to become sponsors. If you are interested or know of someone who might be, please be sure to contact me.

While in Nica, Sr. Debbie and I will be meeting with the CARITAS organization to learn more about 75 HIV orphans that are under this organization’s care. We hope to add them to the OHP program. My goal has always been to keep adding children to the OHP program to help as many as we can.

Vince is wonderfully supportive of my trip as he always is. I could not do what I do without his support. One day, I WILL get him to come with me although I don’t know if Nicaragua will ever really be ready for him….

Scotland Trip; The last days, 5 and 6

May 14 and 15

We spent Saturday on Princes and George Street, two areas that were recommended as having good shopping. On our way, we stopped at St. John’s, a Scottish Episcopal church right down the road from the Sheraton. We visited for a few minutes, Mom indulging my never-ending fascination with old churches and then explored the old cemetery attached to the church.

St. John's cemetery

Reading some of the writings on these ancient markers was like looking back in time though a narrow lens. While life must have been very different living in this time period, people mourned their dead when they passed just as we do now. Mom was especially moved by one tombstone that had the names of a husband and wife who died about 20 years after each other but also held the names of their 3 children, ages 5, 4 and 2 who had all died in the same year, 30 years before them. Possibly the plague or some other illness of the early 1800’s had wiped out their entire family of children. We looked at each other and I know we both felt a sharp sadness at imagining such a tragedy.

We were on a hunt for a post office as Vince had asked me to bring him Scottish postage stamps. The first post office we found didn’t have what I was looking for so we walked quite a distance looking for another. In between, we had lunch at a little outside cafe on Georges Street and watched the crowds go by. It was yet another beautifully, brilliant day, cool enough to be comfortable with clear blue skies populated by the occasional white cloud. We were both grateful that the weather had been so lovely for the entire trip.

Al Fresco lunch on George Street, Edinburgh

We reached the area where the other post office was supposed to be but I couldn’t find it. So not wanting to push Mom around in the wheelchair until I knew where we were going, I left her in a park for a few minutes and went to the main street to ask people where it might be. A number of people I asked didn’t know but a woman who had walked by overheard me asking. When she realized that no one could help me, she walked back up the sidewalk to me and proceeded to guide me down to the alley where I could find it. Just one more example of how nice people in this city are and I told her so.

I went back up to collect Mom who was sitting in the park, right where I had left her, watching all the people doing what people do on Saturday mornings in a park in a big city. Some having coffee at an open air bistro, some laying on the grass reading the paper, others walking their dogs or passing time with family. It was one more thing that we liked about Edinburgh, it was comfortable; old in places, grand in others, but welcoming and comfortable.

We found the Post office in an indoor mall that was very crowded so after buying what I needed we left and went back outside. We shopped for a bit more, Mom becoming very enthusiastic when it was time to buy presents for everyone. We enjoyed ourselves picking up Scottish items, deciding this for that person and that for the other. Since shopping was a family trait inherited from my grandmother, Mom’s mother, it seemed quite apropos.

We started our long walk back, even longer now because my back was hurting from pushing the wheelchair up the hills. Once at the hotel, we proceeded directly to the restaurant on the premises for High Tea or Afternoon Tea as the Scots called it.

I had done this twice in my life, one at Harrods with Sonja (which was fabulous!) and once in Singapore. I knew this was the perfect experience to cap off our trip and something I wanted Mom to experience. I ordered for us both and sat back to wait, knowing it would be worth it. First a lovely pot of decaf tea for us to share and then a three-tiered cake stand filled with small finger sandwiches (cucumber and cream cheese, how very British!), scones and cakes with lemon curd (my absolute favorite thing!) and then small, delicate pastries beautifully decorated. We ate until we couldn’t move, and then ate some more. It was wonderful and perfectly Scottish.

Scottish Afternoon Tea

After a few hours rest in the room, we went to one of the Casinos that I didn’t know Edinburgh had. As I said, a cab driver had told us earlier in the week that Edinburgh had them and there wasn’t any way Mom wasn’t going to go!, Her eyes were all alight on our way over and she didn’t even want the wheelchair! It’s amazing how much energy she gets from the thought of playing slot machines.

The casino was small and uncrowded, definitely not like Atlantic City or Las Vegas, but we had been told as much. Scotland has strict regulations on the number of slot machines per casino (20) and methods for gambling so she was a little disappointed although she managed to hit every one of those 20 machines. After about 2 hours, she had lost all her money and we got a quick bite to eat in the restaurant.

Sunday morning, I rose early and went down the street to attend 8am services at St. John’s Cathedral. I was a little disappointed that the service wouldn’t be held in the grand main section of the church with all its stained glass and grand statuary; we met instead in a side chapel. I wasn’t surprised though as this early service is usually lightly attended.

There were 5 people including myself and the woman priest, most of them much older than me. The service was very similar to what I was used to and I participated, although my mind couldn’t help but wander at times to read the inscriptions on the stone walls. I wondered about the other people and families that had worshiped here. It was a calming experience and I had a quiet moment inside my own head to express my gratitude at being able to bring my mother on this heritage trip. Of course, none of it would have been possible without Vince. He had come up with the idea originally and then made it happen. He is so generous and so amazing, I never, ever take this for granted. I know how lucky and blessed I am.

It is now Sunday and we are on the plane coming home. We have about 1 hour before we arrive. Why do the return flights always seem to take so much longer? I guess because the excitement of getting where you are going speeds things up on the way out. On the way home, it’s different. Not that I am not ready to go home, I am. I miss Vince and the girls and everyone else but I know this was a precious and special, once-in-a-lifetime trip for me and mom. Mom told me she felt sad when we were leaving and even had tears in her eyes. I know how she feels. I don’t know what the future holds, or what other trips we will make, but this one will always be the most special and I am very, very grateful.

Scotland Trip – Day 4

May 13, 2011
We slept very late this morning and got a late start to our day. We had a late breakfast and then made our way to the stop for the City Sights Tour Bus. It was one of the hop- on – hop off types but we had been assured that they could accommodate a wheelchair, which it did. We got set up with our headphones and settled in for the ride.

Mom on the Tour bus

We started our tour and after a few stops got off at the stop to take the underground city tour. Edinburgh has a warren of underground passages and crypts that the very poor and destitute lived in during the 1600 – 1800′s. The extreme living conditions; over crowding, rampant disease, no hygiene, flowing rivers of sewage and unchecked crime – were terrible in these underground places. Many people died. The tour guide also regaled us with the tale of the South Bridge Entity who apparently haunts the caverns and will, without warning, strike out an an unsuspecting tourist leaving 3 bloody claw marks in the flesh. Pretty ghoulish and it fit with the tour. There was virtually no light except for the guides meager flashlight and a few sparse candles. You couldn’t see your hand in front of your face at times.

Start of the Underground Tour

We left here and walked the area a bit more. I learned quickly how to navigate a wheelchair on bumpy cobblestone streets. I have a new appreciation for people who have to use a wheelchair all the time.

We ended the day with a trip to the Scottish Museum. We only had 30 minutes but we did get to see the stuffed version of the famous Dolly the Sheep, that was the first cloned animal.

Back in our room but will be going out for dinner in a little bit so we will have an early night. Tomorrow is shopping and then over to the casino. Yep, there ARE casinos and slot machines in Edinburgh. A taxi driver had told us about this and although I was not thrilled, Mom certainly was, so we will be going there to cap off our trip before leaving on Sunday. But not before we have High Tea tomorrow afternoon…

Scotland Trip – Day 3

Driving to Aberdeen from Edinburgh was a 2 and half hour trip. The scenery was beautiful though and time passed quickly. The rolling hills outside of the city gradually became more mountainous. The fields of verdant green pastures with many of the hills dotted with grazing sheep. As we had seen previously, gorse bushes and rape seed fields were everywhere; the vibrant gold yellows of both were stark bursts of color against the green and the brown of tilled fields. Many miles would pass between farm houses and settlements, this is truly a country with many miles of untouched space.

Mom was excited to be going but a little anxious as to what we would find or not find. We both fell asleep for the last 45 minutes of the ride and when Paul said we were entering the city, my eyes popped open. The weather has been beautiful for the last 3 days and today was no exception. So with a brilliant blue sky as a background and in a clear, rain washed sunshine, the buildings and church spires stood out in a 3-D relief. From inside the car, it looked like a postcard.

Our first stop was to 18 Fraser Place, the birthplace of my grandmother, Martha Irene Mauchan. We were disappointed to find that the actual building was no longer standing. What we did find however was 22 Fraser Place which looked to be old enough to be from 1906, the year of her birth.

22 Fraser Place; close to where my grandmother was born 1906

Paul and I went into an old pub on the corner of Fraser & George streets and inquired but the few people in the pub were enjoying their ale and while friendly, didn’t have any helpful information. We went back outside and took pictures at #22 since this appeared to be as close as we were going to get to the location we were looking for.

Corner Bar at Fraser St.

The small, outbuilding in the backyard may have been a community wash house and I imagined my grandmother’s mother, bringing her wash down on her assigned day to do the family’s laundry. There would have been a family of 5 at this point and since wash would have been scrubbed on a washboard and dried in the attic or back yard depending on the weather, wash day must have been hard work.

Fraser Street Wash House

Satisfied that we had seen all that we could in this area, we headed off for St. Nicholas’s church, the church we believed our family would have worshiped at in the early 1900’s. There are many churches in Aberdeen and we were taking a chance that this would be the right one.

Paul dropped Mom and I off and we walked through the cemetery leading up to the church. There wasn’t any place to park the car so Paul said he would keep circling around the area until we returned. Many of the old gravestones dating back to the 1800’s were askew or tipped over, giving the place an authentic and un-manicured air. There were people sitting down eating lunch or hanging out, it was a peaceful old place and I would love to have spent some time reading the gravestones and the history of those buried there had we the time.

St. Nicholas Cemetary

Once inside the church, we explained to the three very nice, older people waiting to greet visitors and answer questions what we were looking for but despite their best intentions, they did not have the information we needed. We did however, get a tour of the old church which was hundreds of years old. As had happened the other day, our erstwhile tour guide was enthusiastic about explaining every detail, nook and cranny and I was hard-pressed to be polite about speeding things along. I tired not to let too much of my “New York” attitude show as I hustled Mom out the door.

St. Nicholas

They had given us one excellent piece of advice however when they suggested that we visit St. Nichols House, their City Hall, to look up burial records that might point us on the right path.

Paul picked us up out on the street and we drove to Nicholas House. He dropped off us off in front and I asked him to meet us inside and bring the wheelchair we had brought with us after he parked the car down the road a bit. We hadn’t had to use it until today as most of our walking had been short distances but I knew Mom was getting tired getting in and out of the car. (Our car was a SUV with a very high step up and she literally was pulling herself up and in each time we left and returned to the car.)

We signed in at the Visitors Desk and were directed to the 4th Floor to the Burials Department. On the way up in the elevator, another gentleman was riding with us also going to the 4th floor. He noted this and said, “I bet you are looking for me”. When I told him we needed the Burials Department, he smiled and said “follow me”. He turned out to be the best information source of the day.

Ian Burnett is a 30 year veteran of the Burials Department and he knew his stuff. Once I told him what we were looking for and showed him the paperwork we had, he proceeded to pull out two very large register books with handwritten records dating back to the time period we needed, early 1900’s. Within seconds, just as fast as a computer, he produced the page showing the cemetery plot that my great, great grandfather, Alexander Mauchan had purchased in June of 1901 after his wife Jane Grey Mauchan had died.

Ian and Mom at City Hall


Ian told us that the price paid of 4 pounds, 14 shillings (about $8) was an exorbitant amount of money for the time and suggested that Alexander, a stereotyper, must have been a very wealthy man indeed. We also discovered that in addition to Jane, and later Alexander himself (who was buried there in 1910), there are 4 other people in this plot.

• Margaret Mauchan – died November 11, 1916. She lived at 34 Rose St., and was the widow of Samuel Rose. We believe she was Alexander’s sister.
• Margaret Cruckshank – died October 21, 1944. She was the second wife of Arthur Mauchan (my grandmother’s father) who we believe returned to Scotland from Canada after his death in 1925. She was the step-mother my grandmother often told stories about. She lived at 72 Skene Rd.
• Ernest MacAngus – died December 23, 1943 and Hilda MacAngus, his wife, died June 14, 1990. We believe that Hilda was a descendant of Alexander Mauchan, perhaps his great niece.

St. Peter's Cemetery register

Looking through the Aberdeen phone book provided by Ian, we were disappointed to discover no one with the last name of Mauchan remaining in Aberdeen. Mom and I had both been hoping that we would discover a long, lost relative. I had secret visions of bringing Mom to the house of such a person and being invited in for tea while we introduced ourselves and shared our common histories. But it was not to be and both Mom and I were a little saddened by this.

After we had exhausted all of our options for information gathering, we thanked Ian for his help. He asked for my contact information and said if he ever came across the name Mauchan, which is apparently very uncommon, he would contact me. I was delighted by his offer and we exchanged email addresses.

We met Paul downstairs who was patiently waiting for us and went for lunch around the corner. I was glad we had the wheelchair at this point since Mom was relieved to use it.

After lunch, we proceeded to St. Peter’s cemetery to look for plot T 46A, the family burial plot. Ian had shown us a cemetery map and we knew approximately were to find it. We were happy to learn it was just inside the cemetery gates so no long distance walking would be required. Paul maneuvered the big SUV inside the old cemetery gates, which were meant for horse drawn carriages and much smaller cars and thankfully, the side view mirrors remained intact.

Mom and I got out quickly and walked to the area we expected to find the headstone. Once there, it took a few minutes to realize that the small, chevron shaped stone leaning against another was what we were looking for. The lettering was badly worn away and it was difficult to make out the writing until Mom reached down and started vigorously brushing the dirt off to make the letters appear clearer. We then poured water over the stone and the words jumped out in stark relief. We were able to read:

“The Burial Ground of the late Alexander Mauchan”.

The Burial Ground of the late Alexander Mauchan

We had found it! We were surprised that there was no further information on the stone; no dates or other names. The stone itself had slipped off of its wire support and was half covered by overgrown grass which I yanked out by the roots to make some attempt at beautification. On the other side of this stone, a much newer stone was erected for Ernest and Hilda MacAngus whose deaths had come much later in the cemetery. We surmised that their own children had erected the stone. Possibly, with further research, I may be able to track them down.

I suggested to Mom that we should have brought some flowers to lay by the grave and when I saw the disappointment clearly written on her face, I asked Paul to drive us down the street to buy flowers and to drive us back again so we could leave them as a token of our respect and shared ancestry. As Mom placed the flowers in an urn that happened to be near by, I felt a sense of completion that we had done what we had come to do. I asked Mom how she felt and she told me that it was “sad that no one was around to take care of the site” but she was happy that we had been able to do something for them all. As we walked away, she said “Goodbye grandfather, someone still does care.”

Mauchan Burial Plot Gravestone

From the cemetery, we drove to 5 other addresses that we had from information that had been researched for us by our tour guide. In every instance, the houses were no longer standing. Some areas however, still had older buildings located next to the places we looked so we were able to get a glimpse of a street that may have been walked on or the corner mailbox that may have been used by our family.

Baker Street - where Uncle Charlie was born 1910

We are now driving back to Edinburgh. Mom is asleep in the car as I type this. I know she is exhausted but she is happy that we were able to use our time in Aberdeen to discover as much as possible for now. I have promised her I will look into stereotypers in the late 1800 and early 1900’s, the profession of Alexander Mauchan that had allowed him to buy the expensive burial site. Perhaps we can uncover a little more information that will help shed light on his family and their way of life.

Me and Mom at St. Peter's Cemetary

Scotland Trip – Day 2

May 11, 2011

We met our tour guide Paul at 8:30 am as planned. Of course, it was really 3:30 in the morning EST and my eyes felt like I had sand in them. Mom had gotten a good 12 hours sleep but I stayed up late working on this blog and didn’t get enough. Jet Lagged! Paul met us in his full Scottish regalia.

Our Kilted Tour Guide Paul

After stopping at a cafe for some breakfast for the road, we drove past HolyRood, the centuries old seat of the Scottish parliament. Once we were outside of the city, the landscape changed dramatically. We saw brilliant yellow fields of rape seed (used to make rape seed oil used in cooking) and patches of thorny gorse, a bush I had read about in all my fantasy books since that’s what this country reminds me of. Driving along the coast of the Firth of Forth, the name of the body of water, we drove past Arthur’s Seat a mountainous area with beautiful cliff side views and an extinct volcano. Who knew there were volcanoes in Scotland? Paul told us that Edinburgh Castle we visited yesterday was built on an extinct volcano as well.

Then we headed off to Rosslyn Castle in Midlothian, about 10 miles outside of Edinburgh. I love to visit old cathedrals and chapels and we’ve been to quite a few as Vince can tell you, but this one was the most beautiful chapel I’ve ever seen. Building started in 1446 by the St. Claire family and although the complete cross shaped transept design was never completed, the portion that was finished contains some of the most intricately carved stonework imaginable. The vaulted stone ceiling was a work of art in itself and an engineering marvel. The outside flying buttresses (the supports that “push” the sides of the church in holding up the vaulted ceiling) were magnificent.

Rosslyn Chapel


Rosslyn ceiling

The chapel is in a state of ongoing reconstruction which is overseen by the descendants of the St. Clair family and the Scottish Heritage Foundation. In the mid 1500′s, Scotland Reformation moved the country to the Presbyterian faith and all of the Roman Catholic churches were either destroyed, looted or closed. This beautiful place was shut down and not used again as a chapel until the late 1800′s when Queen Victoria decided to restore it. The Da Vinci code also brought world-wide attention to this chapel and since the movie was released, the visitor count has increased four-fold bringing with it more tourist dollars to be used towards the restoration. Check out www.rosslynchapel.com

There was something about this place that just pulled at me. I went downstairs to see the family crypt, which was built even earlier, in the 1200′s. The crypt has been sealed for over 200 years. No one knows exactly what or who is buried there. Our tour guide told us of the many legends about the secrets hidden within the crypt. She said that The Ark of the Covenant, the Holy Grail, the Shroud of Turin, some of the Dead Sea Scrolls and Elvis Presley are all some of the items purported to be buried below. :)

Rosslyn Chapel Gargoyle

The tour guide also told us about the Ley Lines that supposedly intersect at a certain spot in the center of the chapel floor. She suggested that we stand in this spot, keep an open mind and see if we felt the “energy”. Of course I tried it.

Standing under a hanging pointer that marked the intersect lines, I closed my eyes and waited. I tried not to think to hard about how silly I looked standing there with people milling all around me but within seconds, I “saw” four black intersecting lines. They weren’t in the shape of a cross but were rather angled like a big X. I stood for a few minutes, smiling at myself and what Vince would have said about my woo-woo gullibility.

The tour guide asked me if I “felt” anything. When I explained what I had “seen”, she paused and smiled. She said that only a few other people had said they had seen 4 lines but that was the number that was supposed to be intersecting. And then she said to me, “Were they crossed in a diagonal fashion?” I said yes and again she said that this is what she had been told by others. Of course you non-believers (and I know who you are!), don’t believe a word of this but I think I do. I think the concept of Ley Lines is fascinating (it’s been described as lines of energy that run around the world) and who’s to say it isn’t true? Look it up: Ley Lines

This whole experience just added to my overall awe of this place. Mom enjoyed it as well and while I was doing all of this, she was walking around looking at the carvings and the architecture. She agreed that it was remarkable place.

We left Rosslyn to drive to Linlithgow Palace, a palace built in the 1500′s by James V as a gift for his new wife Margaret Tudor, sister of Henry VIII. Linlithgow is a palace and not a castle, the difference being that a castle is built with fortification to sustain a battle or a seige. A palace is a big country house built for royalty to visit when they want to escape the smell of the great unwashed multitudes or the plague. It wasn’t an easy time to live in unless you were a royal.

Mom at Fountain at Linlithgow Palace

There’s lots of royal political history and intrigue everywhere in this country, not unlike England and I am just loving it. But at the risk of having your eyes glaze over, suffice it to say that this palace was built in stages over the centuries and then a fire started by some careless guests who left an oil lamp burning, gutted the entire palace, leaving only the stone walls. I roamed around these walls, taking Mom in wherever the floors were even and safe. She didn’t want to try to manage the stairs that led to other floors so I would go up and then lean out the window and shout down to her.

That's mom sitting waaaay down there!

Outside of the palace, St. Micheal’s cathedral is still operating as the local parish church. It was another beautiful example of architecture, stained glass windows and history. Although we didn’t take a tour, a friendly older man stationed inside to welcome visitors, was happy to tell us about the place. In particular, he showed us a mason’s mark on one of the stone columns, made by one of the stone masons that had built the original structure in the 1500′s. It was pretty impressive to see an autograph from 600 years ago.

Mason's Mark at St. Michaels


St. Michaels

Mom is enjoying all the history also although sometimes the different Scottish accents are hard to understand. As we drive through the small villages and towns, she keeps commenting on the architecture and stone buildings. Everything, both old and new, seem to be built of stone. Apparently, there is alot of it in Scotland and it makes for some beautiful buildings.

We had lunch at a restaurant that looked like a shepherd’s cottage. The building was low and surrounded by flowers and places to sit. Inside, Mom and I sat at a small table for two tucked into a side room. (Paul choose not to have lunch with us, saying he would wait in the car for us instead) After some delicious red lentil soup, salad with stilton cheese dressing and a glass each of South African Chenin Blanc, Mom and I were recharged and ready to go.

A very nice lunch!

Before we left, we used the loo (yes, toilet). I had to take this picture as I had never seen one quite like it!

What a pretty bowl!

In the evening, we went to see the “Taste of Scotland Show”, a dinner theater event. The show included bagpipers (which made Mom very happy) and Scottish singers and dancers. Mom really liked the show especially the Scottish songs and costumes. And although we were both very hesitant, we even tried the hagus which is a famous Scottish oatmeal and offal sausage-type thing. (And if you want to know why we were so hesitant, look up the word “offal”.) We both decided it wasn’t for us.

Mom and I at The Scotland Show

We’re back in our room now, already in bed. We’ve had two busy days and tomorrow we are off to Aberdeen. Mom is most excited about this part of the trip since visiting Aberdeen, the city of her ancestry, is the main reason we are here. We have dates and locations and will visit the Registry House to try to find out if some relatives still live in the city. We will also visit the address of the home where her mother (my grandmother Nanny) was born. And if the house is still standing, I plan to go right up to the front door, ring the bell and introduce ourselves.

May 9 and 10, 2011

Jeannie drove us to the airport Monday evening which was really great. I had been trying to figure out the logistics of dropping mom off at curbside with the luggage, parking the car in the lot and getting back to the terminal after leaving her to sit by herself for 15 minutes. Jeannie solved all of this. Excellent!

Mom & I leaving for Scotland

The flight was uneventful but after almost 7 hours, we were both ready to get off. I took a little blue pill (Advil PM) but Mom didn’t. Needless to say, I slept a little, Mom didn’t. We are both pretty tired.

They had a wheelchair ready for Mom when we got off the plane and we got through Customs really quickly. As a matter of fact, we cut ahead of everyone on all lines. I felt a little guilty but hey, we were tired so I went along with it.

Everyone is so nice here, I keep telling the people that we talk to that there are only nice people in Scotland. They find this pretty amusing. We checked into our hotel, which is very pretty and feels very British. The room is small but nicely appointed.

Hotel Room

Hotel Lobby

After re-grouping and unpacking, we left to go see the Edinburgh Castle, the main attraction of the city. First we had a quick lunch in the hotel in a lovely wood paneled room with big high windows. They served a proper British lunch and a wonderful little pot of decaf tea.

Lunch at the hotel

A nice cup of tea

The hotel lent us a wheelchair and we took a taxi, with a really nice driver, over to the castle. They were really great about letting the cab bring us all the way to the top as the old streets leading up to the castle proper are long, windy and cobblestone. I never would have been able to push the wheelchair up them.

Mom and I at Edinburgh Castle

It had been raining and overcast when we first got to the castle and it was very blustery but after about 45 minutes, the sun came out and the sky was a beautiful blue with billowing white clouds scudding by.

Blue Sky at the Castle

We saw the Crown Jewels of Scotland, which were not much compared to the Crown Jewels of England but the scepter, crown and the sword were impressive. These had been hidden for over 100 years and forgotten about until Sir Walter Scott opened up an old chest and re-discovered them. Needless to say they were overjoyed to find them in 1818.

We visited the other rooms and outbuildings of the castle. It is similar to the Tower of London, which has multiple buildings built at different times over the ages. Everyone was very accommodating for us with the wheelchair, putting up ramps and letting us go in through back entrances. At one point, I was pulling Mom down a ramp backwards and the wheelchair tipped sideways. She didn’t fall out, but she could have. I’m no expert with this thing so I was very happy that someone was there helping me get her back on the tracks. It shook us both up a bit.

Since James V, there hasn’t been a specific monarch of Scotland but instead the English monarch presides over both countries. The Scots have a convoluted and confusing history when it comes to Britain. It’s a history that is well over 1000 years old.

After seeing all that there was to see, we took the route down from the top of the castle hill with Mom walking at some points and riding at others. Going down was alot easier than going up but I had to be really careful not to slip on the cobblestones and have Mom go careening down the hill out of control. I promised her I wouldn’t let that happen!

We walked out of the castle grounds and down the Royal Mile, a famous old street which is the site of lots of things that I don’t remember because I am so tired. We went in and out of a few stores but didn’t buy anything except a little something in a store called “Ness”.

A store called "Ness"

Mom and I shared some great fish and chips at a local place recommended by one of the staff at the castle. We sat outside, watching the people go by and enjoying this U.K. specialty. I hadn’t had this since visiting Alixandria and Sean in England and it was tasty!

Great fish and chips

The streets were pretty busy, lots of school children and tourists plus working people walking by. It was touristy but you could also see the history contained in the old stone buildings, sandwiched in between the newer ones. A combination of new and old, very reminiscent of London.

The Royal Mile

We went inside St. Giles Cathedral which was really beautiful. I love old cathedrals and this one had some fantastic stained glass and architecture. It was very impressive and I was happy to have seen it. It is located right in the middle of the Royal Mile together with markets and hotels and stores. This very old cathedral was right on the main street two blocks up from a Starbucks.

St. Giles Cathedral

St. Giles stained glass windows

Vaulted Ceiling at St. Giles

We took a cab back to the hotel, showered and got in our pajamas. We are both exhausted. The plan is to TRY to stay awake until 8pm Scotland time so we can get acclimated to the time zone. Our tour guide Paul, will be meeting us at 8:30am tomorrow morning for our tour of Edinburgh. I know we’ll be able to find him in the hotel lobby because he’ll be wearing a kilt!

Mom is trying desperately to find some decent TV to watch but it’s slim pickings. I told her not to expect to find Wheel of Fortune in Scotland! Actually, I think she’s already asleep….

Wish you were here!

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